The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a big, fruit-driven wine. Made in a concentrated, opulent style, this Brunello offers tons of fruit and a round, soft personality. There isn’t too much nuance in the wine today, but that should develop in bottle. The long, polished finish invites a second taste. For now, this remains one of the more overtly fruit-forward wines of the vintage. The entry-level Brunello spends roughly 40 months in large, neutral oak. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. Giacomo Neri is one of Montalcino’s more gregarious producers. His passion clearly comes through in these wines, which are characterized by an emphasis on fruit and opulence. Neri’s Brunellos also make a great case study in the different microclimates of Montalcino. His straight Brunello di Montalcino is made from vineyards ranging from 350-480 meters in altitude located in the northeastern quadrant of the region. The Tenuta Nuova is made from a densely-planted vineyard located roughly in between Sant’Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell’Abate, in the southern part of the zone. The vines in the north typically flower three weeks later than those in the south, and naturally ripen later as well, which serves to highlight some of the differences between Montalcino’s various microclimates. Neri’s 2004 Brunellos are immensely successful. I look forward with great anticipation to the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto, which should be released some time next year. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Blackberries and blueberries on the nose. Full-bodied, with silky and racy tannins, as well as a hint of vanilla. Long and pretty. Very clean. Needs a little time to open. Best after 2010. 6,250 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

Shy nose. Some herbs and warmth on the palate: rich and textural, with dry tannins. Austere, solid briary fruit, and firm acidity. Clean, dry, tannic finish. Subtle, potentially complex.

Lighter in style and consistency than this producer’s past Brunellos, this wine represents a return to Montalcino tradition. Aromas include red cherry, wet earth, white mushroom and tobacco. In the mouth, the wine is tight, firm and long lasting. ——M.L.(10/1/2010)—— 91