Aromas of blackberries, flint and matchstick. Medium body with firm, silky tannins and a lightly chewy finish. Structured and polished. Juicy at the end. Drink after 2025.

From the folks at San Felice in Chianti Classico, the Campogiovanni 2018 Brunello di Montalcino definitely shows a lot of richness and concentration that translates to more fruit weight and texture. The effect is a little heavy and overdone in my opinion, and this vintage prioritizes brawn over nuanced detail. There's a lot coming at you at once, with ripe plum, blackberry and spice. These qualities set up the wine for an immediate pairing with a hearty meat dish. Production is generous with 93,000 bottles made.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino shows volume and girth with dark fruit aromas of black cherry and plum. The warmth of the vintage is reflected in the softness of the fruit and the supple texture delivered to the palate. On a second wave, this Brunello exhibits sweet spice, earth and crushed flowers. Unlike some of its peers that show astringent tannins, this wine is virtually seamless in terms of mouthfeel. It offers a soft approach overall, with medium length and intensity. This 95,000-bottle release shows a rather lean finish.

Campogiovanni is an estate run by San Felice in Chianti Classico, and its 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni is a lovely, dark and savory wine to serve with a platter of fatty charcuterie and aged tomme cheese. The bouquet is elegant and linear, showing a pretty ensemble of dark fruit, cassis and dried cherry. This vintage is particularly well balanced, with soft spice and crisp acidity competing for your attention and keeping things bright and interesting. An ample 85,000 bottles were produced.

The San Felice 2014 Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni (with 70,000 bottles made) takes an extra minute or two to open. On first inspection, the wine shows reduced aromas of flint and ash. Give it time, and the bouquet opens to show wild berry, tar, licorice, teriyaki spice and crushed stone. This bouquet speaks to a very specific Brunello consumer who likes the balsamic and smoky-mineral characteristics that can emerge with Sangiovese. This is a mid-weight effort that needs a few more years of bottle aging before it fully opens.