More weight and power along with notes of roasted hazelnuts, peach, and smoky, almost clarified butter smells emerge from the 2005 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch. More extroverted and exuberant than the McCrea cuvee, it is an unusually elegant effort (because the acids are crisp and refreshing) that should drink beautifully for 7-8 years. Kistler Vineyards, undeniably one of the world’s finest winemaking estates, is run with passionate dedication to detail and quality by Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler. It is wines like these that keep an old critic like me inspired and energized.Previously recommended: 2004 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard (91-93), 2004 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch (93-95), 2004 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (92-94), 2004 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard (94-96), 2004 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard (94-96+), 2004 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen (95-97), 2004 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard (92-94), 2004 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard (94-96), 2004 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth (96-98), 2004 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard (92-94), 2004 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Catherine Occidental Station (94-95).Not yet released.Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709