The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is impressive. Richly-textured layers of fruit emerge from this vivid, old-vine selection. The wine shows remarkable depth, clarity and polish, with subtle notes of oak that impart volume and richness. The finish is equally generous and round, although the wine’s structural components are ever-present. Tar, smoke and licorice mark the powerful, brooding finish. This is a gorgeous effort from Capanna. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. These two Brunellos from Capanna are superb. This small, family-run estate is located in the famed Montosoli district, to the north of the town of Montalcino. Importers: Masciarelli Wine Company, Weymouth, MA; tel. (781) 335-6620; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060

Crushed raspberry and blueberry on the nose, with hints of rose and lilac. Full-bodied, with a wonderful core of ripe fruit and chewy tannins. Long and structured. Best after 2012. 1,219 cases made, 250 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

Here’s a Brunello Riserva with a delicate, feminine nose that recalls elements of forest fruit, pressed violets, cherry cola and dried herbs. The wine is determined, linear and powerful in the mouth with tight tannins and a polished, slightly bitter finish.——M.L.(8/1/2010)—— 91