One of the more attractive bargains in the portfolio is the 2004 Crozes-Hermitage Les Launes. The wine reveals plenty of berry fruit as well as some pepper, herbs, and spice. It is a wine to drink over its first 4-5 years of life. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Offers a light-bodied mix of black cherry, herb and spice notes, with a hint of cola on the finish. Drink now. 7,915 cases made. -JM

A bit herbal on the nose, but in a good way, combining easily with blueberry and pepper scents to make a harmonious bouquet. Fresh and fruit-forward, albeit without a lot of depth. Crisp and a bit tannic on the finish; give it another year or two to soften. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 85