The 2005 Masseto (Merlot) is simply gorgeous. A wine of extraordinary class and personality, it remains very primary in its dark fruit, licorice, cassis and toasted oak. It offers notable concentration and well-integrated tannins, all of which convey an impression of awesome harmony, finesse and balance. The tricky growing season seems to have been less of an issue for the Merlot, particularly in the old-vine Masseto Centrale vineyard. The 2005 Masseto has been superb every time I have tasted it thus far. As is often the case, the wine requires at least a few years of bottle age before it becomes approachable. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. It is impossible not to be impressed by the consistent results Ornellaia achieves year after year. This is a gorgeous set of wines from oenologist Axel Heinz and agronomist/General Manager Leonardo Raspini. In general, the estate’s 2005s are smaller-scaled wines than is often the case, but they offer remarkable balance and plenty of style. As outstanding as the 2005s are, the 2006s are simply off the charts. They are thrilling wines that have tons of everything; fruit, acidity and structure to burn. Even though 2005 was a fresher vintage than 2006, Heinz reported that the 2006s have higher acidities that developed as a result of the unique qualities of the growing season. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700