The 2003 Freisa Kye displays a deeply aromatic nose, with suggestions of earthiness, herbs and animal – that may not sound appealing, but, trust me, it is – along with sweet dark fruit, excellent length and great overall balance. It is the finest Freisa I’ve tasted. Studies show Freisa is an ancient precursor of Nebbiolo. Freisa often shows a distinctly animalistic quality which is why it is often paired with game, but in 2003 the excessive heat seems to have tamed the wilder side of the grape, and this year’s version is truly outstanding. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. Various American importers, including Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808