Duboeuf’s largest single cuvee – their 2009 Beaujolais-Villages, assembled from six different villages and 15 lots from different growers, and destined for the U.S. – is brimming with ripe blackberry and cassis; mouth-filling and plush; and retaining an attractive primary juiciness and hint of berry skin tartness that serves for some invigoration as well as contrast to the wine’s sense of sweetness in the finish. Don’t look for any intrigue here, but certainly for an excellent value that far surpasses the quality of the corresponding 2008. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

With just a touch of tannin, this big-selling Beaujolais-Villages has both weight and richness. Most of all, it has bright red fruits, a hint of spice and crisp acidity. ——R.V.(12/31/2010)—— 84