The non-vintage Elyssia Gran Cuvee (I tasted the 2008 vintage, which is not stated on the label) is a blend of Chardonnay, Macabeu, Parellada and Pinot Noir aged for 15 months in the cellar. It has a crisp floral nose that is very tight at first, but opens to offer hints of honeysuckle and acacia. The palate is well-balanced with honeyed tones on the entry that impart sweetness towards the finish. It is pretty and graceful. Drink now-2015. Like its archrival Codorniu, Freixenet is associated with commercial Cava that sells in staggering quantities around the world, the go-to choice for consumers who want bubbles without Champagne's price tag. However, for this report I have focused upon their lesser-known premium range that is surprisingly diverse. I must confess that when they did pour their most popular label, it only served to illustrate the gulf in quality. Importer: Freixenet USA, Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-7256; www.freixenetusa.com

The Non-Vintage Elyssia Gran Cuvee contains both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the blend and is finished with a dosage of 9 grams. It displays considerably more depth and complexity than the Cordon Negro. Most American consumers are unlikely to see any Freixenet product aside from the ubiquitous Cordon Negro. However, Freixenet produces a full range of Cavas ranging from very good to excellent in their price to quality ratio. I was able to see this firsthand in my visit to the winery in January 2011.Importer: Freixenet USA, www.freixenetusa.com

Shows good freshness and nice apple, lime and peach aromas. The acidity is there, so it’s lithe and forward, with lift and a good bubble bead. Tastes like your basic brut but it’s a bit more refined on the tongue.——M.S.(12/15/2011)—— 87