Jean Boillot's wines are highly regarded, but I can only recommend three of their 1993s. The biggest gamble of the three is the Volnay Les Fremiets. It displays a healthy medium ruby color, good body, some spice in its closed nose, and a compact, moderately tannic, powerful finish. If the fruit holds up and the tannin melts sufficiently, this will turn out to be an attractive, medium weight, firmly-structured Volnay for drinking in 5-6 years. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000