The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets seems just a little dull on the nose, like a sulky teenager banned from playing his Marilyn Manson record. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe red berry fruit laced with mushroom and white pepper, although it is just missing a little complexity toward the finish. Fine, but perhaps more early drinking than its peers. Drink now-2019. Importers: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769, Cynthia Hurley French Wines, West Newton, MA Tel 617-965-4251 www.cynthiahurley.com and Chelsea Ventures, LLC, 1601 South Canal St, Chicago, IL 60616 tel. 847-920-5052. Also through several importers in the UK.