The Leroy 2005 Corton Renardes smells of red cherry, charred wood, vanilla, and lily, but comes onto the palate particularly juicy as well as satisfyingly rich and expansive. This is silky in texture but bright and insistent in its sense of primary fresh fruit. A superbly long finish unites cherry liqueur, nutmeg, vanilla, chalk dust, and a savory meatiness, and the empty glass is sweetly perfumed with sensational intensity. I have never tasted a youthful Corton remotely so forward, perfumed, silken, or superficially sweet. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400