Dark cherry and cassis infused with juniper berry, chalk dust, and decomposing wood provocatively scent the Leroy 2008 Corton Renardes, the addition of cherry pit bitterness on its silken palate pulling it in an almost austere direction from which the essential primary fruit juiciness so typical for the best of this vintage pulls it back. Beneath the layer of satin one senses a fine-grained structure as formidable as are this wine’s sense of somehow tasteable chalky mother rock and the vino-electric power dammed up behind it. This is a model of rectitude and its finish of pure, unwavering penetration. It’s also more latent than actualized. To follow its evolution over the next 20 or more years would be thrilling. Lalou Bize-Leroy reports average 2008 Pinot Noir yields of 13 hectoliters per hectare, almost absurdly tiny even by her singular standards. Malos were a bit later than usual but were finished by summer, and the wines bottled – as usual – in December. Yet – also as usual – if their development was thereby in any way stunted, you certainly won’t detect it in the bottle today! The best of these display a sense of transparency; levity; and – even when rich and head-spinningly complex – a sheer sense of refreshment and invigoration that I have seldom encountered in other great wines from these sister estates. (Please note that my account of the complete 2007 red collection at Leroy was published in issue #189.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040