Chateau Ste. Michelle's attractively packaged single-vineyard Chardonnays as well as their Chateau Reserve are fine, interesting, admirably different wines. However, they do not offer a very good price/quality rapport. My only complaint regarding Chateau Ste. Michelle's red wine program is that the wines are the result of excessively conservative, safe wine-making. They are well-made, but the potentially fine raw materials have been too sculptured for my tastes. Less tartness (low PH's) would result in more appealing textures. The 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard is gorgeously packaged in a tall, Italian glass bottle with a stunning label design. The wine's color is an impressively saturated dark ruby/purple, and the nose offers up moderate quantities of cassis, cedar, earth, and new oak scent. After hitting the palate with fine richness and a long, ripe, interesting attack, the wine narrows to reveal medium body, tart acidity, some compactness, and a moderately tannic finish. Although very good, it could have been outstanding if it had received less manipulation. I hope that Chateau Ste. Michelle, which has enormous resources and potential, will recognize the fact that their restrained, understated wine-making style may win fans among Professors of Oenology and technocrats, but not among hedonists. These are fine wines, but they are not exciting. Tel. (206) 488-1133