The 2009 Campanaro (Fiano, Greco) is surprisingly awkward and inward, especially for a vintage that yielded so many radiant whites. Both bottles I tasted were good, but not quite up to customary level for this wine. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Feudi di San Gregorio is one of the leaders in the modern-day Renaissance of Campanian oenology. Readers who want to learn more about the estate's history may want to reference my article 'The Noble Wines of Southern Italy' in Issue 190, which also includes verticals of the estate's flagships Serpico and Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the new release of the Riserva this year. For ease of reference I have included my note on Feudi's Aglianico del Vulture here, although the wine is, of course, from Basilicata. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Campanaro is a unique blend of Fiano and Greco grapes that opens with a beautiful bouquet of stone fruit, honey, white almond and Golden Delicious apple. It a dry, crisp wine with a focused, fine feel in the mouth.——M.L.(3/1/2012)—— 90