The 2009 Chablis Les Blanchots is another of the relatively immediate wines in this lineup. Layers of expressive fruit fill out the wine’s broad shouldered frame nicely. This is an unusually refined, polished Blanchots. The style built on volume rather than minerality will appeal most to readers who like richer Chablis. Laroche aged 30% of the wine in barrel. The balance is impeccable. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Domaine Laroche is back in the US market after an absence of several years. The house style is marked by a search for considerable textural richness, which makes these some of the deeper, more opulent wines made in Chablis. Over the last few years, Domaine Laroche has begun to focus on organic viticulture and increased the use of indigenous yeasts, both of which are rare in Chablis. All of the Domaine Laroche wines are bottled under screwcap, also rare in Chablis, especially at this level. Winemaker Gregory Viennois told me the 2011 harvest started on September 12, towards the later side for the village. Viennois noted that potential alcohols and acidities were quite similar for both 2010 and 2011, which is unusual among the top domaines in Chablis. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Hugely rich wine, retaining its tense textured character while reveling in white fruit ripeness. Concentrated, with the wood acidity and spice mingling with the fruit acidity, this is a wine for long-term aging, powerful yet always very crisp. Screwcap. ——R.V.(12/31/2011)—— 93