The wines of El Coto de Rioja are traditionally styled. The best of the three recommended wines is the 2000 Coto Real Reserva, a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 10% Grenache, and 10% Graciano, which was barrel-fermented in new French oak and then transferred to a mixture of used French and American oak for 16 months. Dark ruby-colored, it reveals an attractive perfume of crushed flowers, mineral, tobacco, and black cherry. Medium to full-bodied, the wine has a solid layering of blackberry fruit and a seamless elegance to its personality. Drink this nicely rendered Rioja over the next 4-6 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 375-0700

There’s no shortage of barrel-driven hickory, coffee and chocolate on this modern-style Rioja, but there’s also a spike of green on the nose and at the core of the flavor profile. Surrounding that is bright blackberry, amplified tannins and bursting acidity. Needs air upon opening—that, or more time in the cellar.——M.S.(11/1/2006)—— 89