The 2004 Coto Real Reserva is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 10% Garnacha aged in 33% new French oak for 16 months. It offers up an already complex bouquet of sandalwood, Asian spices, lavender, incense, and assorted black fruits. Elegant on the palate with excellent depth and concentration, it conceals enough underlying tannin to evolve for at least another 3-4 years and should drink well through its 20th birthday. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; Tel: (212) 355-3700

Lifted varnish notes, sweet black fruits and creamy vanilla oak. Firm with gravelly tannins and fresh acidity. Traditional.

A success for El Coto! This is a dark and lusty wine that falls squarely into the Nuevo Classico style. It’s smoky and dark on the nose, with mineral notes blending with chocolate and ripe berry aromas. Lushness carries the palate, which rests on blackberry and cassis flavors. Controlled, weighty and concentrated. A big wine for big food and big occasions.——M.S.(2/1/2009)—— 92