Willi Brundlmayer’s 2005 Gruner Veltliner Loiser Berg represented a significant advance in concentration and focus over the Gruner Veltliner that came before it in his 2005 pecking order. Sweet pea, floral, and lemon aromas lead into a mid-bodied palate impression of clarity and refinement, with a combination of crispness and juiciness like salad greens and a satisfyingly savory, salty finish. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300