The Smaragd 2004 Riesling Achleiten displays flowers, salt, and citrus in the nose. The medium-bodied but rich and expansive palate is possessed of lemony brightness, along with notes of nut oils, iodine, soy, sea salt and crushed stones. The overall impression here is of deep, rolling waves of fruit capped with bright citrus and packed with fruit, nut and mineral matter. I could taste the tide crashing in the finish a minute or more later. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

A big, bold Riesling with a long, crisp finish, Prager’s Achleiten Smaragd boasts stunning flavors of honey, apricot and stones. The bouquet isn’t too shabby, either, presenting hints of mineral oil, honey and fresh greens. A tour de force that will probably drink well until 2020. Imported by Vin Divino. ——J.C.(3/1/2006)—— 93