Bodenstein’s 2005 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten displays clarity and refinement of flavors that transcend what is missing from so many 2005 Austrian Rieslings. Its aromatic and palate interplay of white peach, wet stones, and subtle herbs and flowers practically defines Riesling from this site. A glossy, creamy-rich texture and smoky note nod in the direction of botrytis, but that in no way keeps the wine from displaying juicy length, with accenting notes of bitter-sweet peach kernel, almond, and fine mineral nuances. As expressive as this is today, Bodenstein says it was the longest to ferment and was quite shut down at one point. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Smaragd Kaiserberg ($42.00; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

This wine is going to age, and age magnificently. That’s obvious from the taut, structured tannins and the curve of flavors that rise from the perfumes through peach and white fruits and finishing with fresh, juicy acidity. ——R.V.(10/1/2006)—— 95