(zweigelt) Dark, nearly opaque ruby-garnet with violet reflections. Initially reticent nose opens to display leafy and resiny nuances along with dark berries, damp forest floor, cedar and a hint of grapefruit peel. An elegant, nicely delineated, medium-bodied wine with delicate red berry and cherry fruit complicated by a note of cocoa. Lively acids and well-integrated tannins contribute to the impression of seamlessness. Finishes persistent and refreshing. Very easy to drink, at a moderate 13% alcohol, but has the balance to reward aging. Drink now to 2015.

Made from 40-year-old vines, this blend, dominated by Zweigelt, but also with some Blaufrankisch and Cabernet Sauvignon, is concentrated and intensely fruity, with an elegant, smooth texture that only hints at the concentrated tannic structure underneath. It’s not hugely powerful; it’s more sensuous and deliciously long-lasting.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 91