Brundlmayer’s 2004 Pinot Noir Cecile smells, quite typical for this wine, of cherry, plum, and soy, ringed by a hint of wood smoke. Subtly creamy yet clear and juicy on the palate, it displays considerable refinement and complexity of pit fruits, smoked meat, and forest floor in the finish. Don’t hesitate to sock some of this away – the 1997, for example, is ravishing today. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

No surprise that Willi Brundlmayer is one of the few in Austria to have real success with Pinot Noir. This is soft, ripe, enveloping, with bitter cherry flavors rounded at the edges with sweet tannins and refreshing acidity.——R.V.(8/1/2008)—— 89