The 2017 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru was showing brilliantly, blossoming in the glass with scents of pear, white currants, crisp green apple, dried white flowers and a subtle framing of new oak. Full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, for all this wine's texture it is its racy acidity and compelling sense of energy that lend it its distinction. This is a concentrated, beautifully balanced Bienvenues that is well worth seeking out.