The 2005 Feudo di Mezzo is the most structured of these wines. It sweeps across the palate with layers of sweet, perfumed fruit, showing terrific depth and density supported by finessed tannins. This a gorgeous expression of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio from the slopes of the Etna. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Proprietors Marco and Iano de Grazia are best known for the extensive portfolio their company represents but they are also proving to be very talented winemakers. Tenuta delle Terre Nere is located on Sicily’s Mount Etna, a recently re-discovered region that is set to challenge readers’ perceptions of Sicilian wines. These are believed to be the highest vineyards in Italy and Europe. The late-ripening indigenous Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio yield wines of notable aromatic complexity, with finessed tannins and a weightless quality that recalls Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo. Many of the best sites are still planted to old vines that proved to be resistant to phylloxera, which contributes to the wines’ complexity. Terre Nere’s top selections are aged in French oak, of which about 25% is new. It will be fascinating to follow this young estate, which appears to have a very bright future. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411