The estate’s 2008 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco (Coda di Volpe) is round and surprisingly full-bodied in its peaches, ash, game and cured meats. It is a remarkably complex, layered wine that reveals plenty of terroir character to match its varietal expression. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. This is an impressive set of entry-level wines from Mastroberardino, an estate that in recent years has begun to recapture some of its past glory. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620