The 2006 Langhe Sori San Lorenzo is the most virile of these 2006 Langhes. The wine reveals terrific depth and richness in its dark fruit, smoke, tar, licorice and menthol. The authoritative Sori San Lorenzo offers plenty of excitement and sheer pleasure in an extroverted style. The elegant finish is at once powerful and sublime. Baritone notes of tar, smoke and licorice linger on the close. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Angelo Gaja's 2006s from Barbaresco are lovely, although they require a bit of aeration to find their focus. Tthe 2006 Barbaresco in particular is quite an achievement in this challenging vintage. As always Gaja blends in a small percentage of Barbera for his single-vineyard Langhe wines. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900

Ripe and decadent, with prune, spice and blackberry aromas. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and beautiful concentration. This shows structure, power and class. Best after 2012. 800 cases made. -JS