The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes delivers a lovely bouquet of sweet red berries, orange rind, rose hips and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, deep and mineral, it's concentrated and beautifully structurally refined, its sappy core of fruit framed by powdery tannins. Bouley reflected that this only attained a peak fermentation temperature of 28 degrees Celsius, but it held at that temperature for a long time. This is worth a special effort to seek out.