Aromas of wild berries, dark chocolate, sweet spices, licorice and rose petals preface the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, a full-bodied, ample and layered wine that's rich, powerful and gourmand, with a ripe core of fruit, powdery tannins and succulent balancing acids. It's a compelling success, but it will reward some bottle age.