The 2004 Pugnitello is a fat, super-ripe wine loaded with dark fruit intermingled with herbs, licorice and toasted oak. Pugnitello is a seldom-seen indigenous variety, and this version reveals prominent wild, gamey notes. Although the wine is intense in its expression of fruit, the tannins remain formidable. I am not sure to what extent bottle age will make a meaningful difference. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Importers: Premium Brands, Forest Hills, NY; tel. (718) 263-4094; Opici Wines , www.opiciwines.com

If you have not ever tried Pugnitello (and you probably haven’t) this expression of the little-known grape from Tuscany is an exciting discovery. The wine opens with earthy aromas of leather and moist tobacco and delivers amazing concentration and power. It’s black as night and will pair with all heavy meat dishes.——M.L.(6/1/2009)—— 88