LAST TASTED 3/94 Of all the regular bottlings, the 1986 came across as one of the most tannic and tightly knit, with a closed, backward personality. There is enough fruit for optimism, but the wine is tart and unyielding, without the flesh and flattering personality of other Hess wines. Based on its performance in this tasting, it needs another 2-3 years of cellaring and should keep for 15 years. However, I am concerned about the tannin level vis a vis the wine's extraction.