Borrowing a trick from the Australians, Washington’s biggest winery takes one of this state’s strengths—the always overlooked Semillon—and marries it to some high-acid Chardonnay, to the benefit of both. Clean, fresh, untampered with, this is content to display good fruit, crisp acids and a polished, immaculate, mouth-cleaning finish. ——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 87