Including an appreciable percentage of vines planted in the 1920s, Clair's 2021 Marsannay les Longeroies was late going through its malolactic fermentation, meaning it was among the more backward wines in the cellar when I visited. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, dark wild berries and coniferous forest floor, it's medium-bodied, supple and seamless, with lively acids and fine, chalky tannins.