The 2004 RESERVA MARQUES DE BORBA is the current release in the U.S.A marketplace, a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet. It seems a bit denser than its sibling, the ’05 Reserva reviewed this issue, if not as charming, but it is also graceful with some grip and intensity on the finish. It has come around rather quickly since I saw it first, though, and the mid-palate concentration is more modest than it first seemed. It drank only adequately the next day. In one vintage, from 2003 to 2004, this bottling has nearly doubled in its suggested retail pricing, a decision that may prove quixotic in these difficult economic times. Drink now-2016. Iconic Southern winemaker Joao Portugal Ramos has many brands, Falua/Vimioso for his Ribatejo property, the low cost Loios brand, the single vineyard Vicosa, Vila Santa and the flagship Marques de Borba in Alentejo. For convenience, they are all grouped here although note that the Falua wines do not necessarily have Ramos’ name on the label.Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand and Red Leg: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado); for Conde de Vimioso (Falua) brand: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843 (Washington, Portland and California) and Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044 (New England, New Jersey and New York).

A big, chewy wine, traditional in style, its dark fruits laden with tannins. It is a food wine, with dense plums, berries and ripe fruit wrapped around a core of dryness. The final taste is dry, leavened with some juiciness. ——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 90