The 2009 RESERVA “MARQUES DE BORBA,” a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in new French oak barriques, is most clearly differentiated from its siblings reviewed this issue by, at the moment, sweet oaky notes. That’s not a good thing, most will say, but this bottling always shows its oak when young. It should make it work and integrate it well as time goes on. A bit differently styled than the more elegant ’08 that I loved, it nonetheless has a statement to make in its own sexier style. With the 2008, it represents a very fine back-to-back duo from Ramos, both showing some finesse, precision and power. As I’ve come to expect, this is plainly the wine in the lineup that has the best chance to age gracefully. It does, unlike its siblings, need a little more time in the cellar to pull itself together and show all that it has to offer. Whether it is worth the considerable price uptick—that’s up to you. Drink 2013-2024. Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand and Red Leg: Winebow, Inc; Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado)

A delicious, smooth wine, all rounded fruit and sweetness to go with the more determined tannins that lie beneath. With great concentration, the wine has a feeling of power while preserving a core of juicy acidity and sweet red plum juice.——R.V.(11/1/2011)—— 92