The 2009 Abadia de Gomariz is a blend of 50% Souson with Brancellao, Ferrol and Mencia, aged for 12 months in 300-liter French (85%) and American (15%) oak. It is very deep in color and is bridled with an intense bouquet of dark plum, blackberry and licorice that remains tightly coiled and introspective. The palate is smooth on the entry with bold tannins. Soft in texture, it is very expressive with blackberry, licorice and black olive on the dry, almost clinical finish. The oak is a little too dominant at the moment although it should integrate more fully with another 12 to 18 months in bottle. Drink 2014-2022. Coto de Gomariz occupies 27 hectares of vineyard overlooking the Avia river in the DO of Ribeiro, on steep, granitic and sandy soils. Focusing on indigenous varieties and focused upon low yields, winemakers Ricardo Carreiro and Xose Lois Sebio are moving toward biodynamic tenets. Their wines, in particular the red, epitomize the potential of Spain’s more esoteric grape varieties when they are let loose on conscientious winemakers. Importer: Christopher Cannan; www.europvin.com; and in UK, agent is www.indigowines.com