The dark ruby-colored 1997 Pinot Noir does not portray the elegant side of this varietal. It has a hefty 14.5% alcohol, and reminds me of well-made Pinot Noirs grown in hot climates. Notes of chocolate, toasty oak, cherry jam, and roasted herbs emerge from this deep, rich, full-bodied offering, which cuts a meaty, earthy profile on the palate. It is a flavorful, intense wine that I enjoyed more because of its flavors and hedonistic qualities than for its depiction of Pinot Noir. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (408) 689-9080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212) 534-3421