The fully mature, dark garnet-hued 1999 Gaia is bricking at the rim but still drinking well. Although much of the fruit has faded, it reveals complex, svelte aromas of cigar box and tobacco. It's medium to full-bodied, silky and fine, with a long, elegant finish. Drink up any remaining bottles over the next year or two.

The 1999 Gaia Proprietary Red Wine (72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Merlot) is an Australian interpretation of a Bordeaux. Its dark ruby color is followed by polished red currant notes intermixed with cedar, spice box, earth, and new oak, medium body, and excellent concentration. This stylish red is the qualitative equivalent of a second or third-growth Bordeaux. Moderate tannin in the finish suggests some patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2012.Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection, imported by USA Wine West, San Rafael, CAphone: (800)-485-5753