One of Australia’s finest proprietary Bordeaux blends is Grosset’s Gaia, usually a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Merlot. The dense ruby/purple-tinged 2001 Gaia reveals ripe cassis, licorice, cedar, spice box, and smoke aromas as well as flavors. A chewy, elegant, refined beauty, it should drink well for 10-12 years. Imported by USA Wine West, San Rafael, CA; tel. (800) 485-5753 for John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection.

Winemaker Jeffrey Grosset advises that you open this Bordeaux blend an hour before you drink it, and I am inclined to agree. Even after a couple of minutes in the glass, the nose won’t show more than traces of clay and bread dough. On the palate, the wine is just as hard to read, but the overall impression—great mouthfeel, smooth tannins, and tightly wound red fruit—means only good things for future enjoyment. Drink 2005+. ——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 91