The 1993 Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal was made from grapes picked at the potential of 16.3% alcohol and vinified to an almost Vendange Tardive sweetness (3.5% residual sugar). It offers a mouthful of huge, honeyed, massive fruit buttressed by vibrant acidity. This powerful, concentrated wine must be drunk with intensely-flavored dishes. Although not for everybody, it is a blockbuster wine that will evolve gracefully for 20-25 years.No one produces such dry, full-bodied, creamy, unctuously-textured Tokay Pinot Gris as the top Alsatian wineries. Tokay Pinot Gris is considered to be the Montrachet of Alsace. And they should be as many of these wines make a mockery of most Montrachets.The 1992 and 1993 wines reviewed in this issue are the wines of a genius. Importers: Wine Markets International, Inc., Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 525-1524