The 1988 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was harvested between September 28 and October 5 and stands out as the raciest, most tensile vintage of the 1988-1989-1990 trio. Unwinding in the glass with notes of sweet stone fruits, buttered citrus, nougat, cornmeal and white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a precise, fine-boned profile and a long, tangy finish. This was surely rather austere in its youth, but it's now drinking with real plenitude.