The delicious 2004 Cotes du Ventoux Domaine de la Crillon is a blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre. Crunchy, juicy, and fruit-driven, with medium body, lovely aromatics, and abundant flavor, it should drink well for 3-4 years. Proprietor Louis Barruol is one of the two finest producers of Gigondas (his wines rival those of Yves Gras’ Santa Duc), and also has a burgeoning negociant operation dedicated to making tasty wines. Readers should note that the estate wines are bottled under the Chateau Saint-Cosme label, and the negociant wines, made from purchased wines or grapes, are simply called Saint-Cosme.A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218