The Dolcetto d’Alba is one of the better versions in the region, as it is again in 2007. Fragrant aromatics lead to refined dark red fruit as this silky, elegant Dolcetto opens up in the glass. Elio Altare had a tough 2006, as many of his vineyards were damaged by hail that year, a risk he had tried to diminish by spreading out the location of his more recently acquired vineyards. While these wines are quite beautiful, they understandably aren’t up to his usual level of quality. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411