The opaque black/purple-colored 1998 Cote Rotie La Landonne (500 cases produced) offers vanillin, espresso bean, licorice, blackberry, and cassis scents and flavors with scorched earth and olive notes in the background. Extremely full-bodied, tannic, and monstrous on the palate, it possesses huge ripeness and extraction, as well as mouth-searing levels of tannin. This wine will need 8-10 years of bottle age; it should drink well for 3-4 decades. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000.