The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is usually one of the more reticent of the estate’s Riservas, but in 2005 it is especially unyielding. Still firm and tightly wound, the wine possesses notable detail and clarity in its fruit in a focused, compact style. Based on previous experience, I may very well be underestimating this wine, but only time will tell for sure. After several hours the Ovello opened up nicely and my impression is it will develop into a splendid Barbaresco?with time. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200