The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello comes across as cool, inward and reticent. In other words, very Ovello. It is one of the most complete of these 2007s, as the freshness of the site works to counter some of the more extroverted qualities of the year. The Ovello possesses stunning depth in its fruit, expressive inner perfume and firm yet refined tannins that provide the backdrop for all of the elements to come together beautifully in the glass. The Ovello seems to combine the best qualities of the Montestefano and Montefico. The huge, building finish provides a glimpse as to what awaits those who can exercise a measure of patience. This is a stunning Barbaresco on all counts. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. The 2007 Riservas saw a lengthy period of four or more weeks on the skins. The wines spent a total of three years in oak, the first year in 25-35 HL casks, an additional 12-18 months in larger 50-75 HL casks, and a final 6-12 months back in the smaller casks. When the 2007 Riservas were younger, the personality of the vintage was quite apparent, but as the wines have aged the site specificity of these great vineyards has begun to emerge. The 2007 Riservas are big wines that should drink well upon release, but they also appear to have enough structure to develop beautifully in the cellar. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200