The new owners’ 2005s, made during a transitional period, mark the beginning of a resurrection of the Jaboulet reputation for quality that existed until the turbulent period of the late 1990s and early 21st century. The 2005 St.-Joseph Le Grand Pompee exhibits a dark ruby/purple color and notes of plum, raspberries, and cherries with hints of mineral and pepper. It is a nice, fruit-driven wine to drink over the next 5-6 years. I fully expect quality will dramatically soar at Jaboulet (just as it has at Chateau La Lagune in Bordeaux) and that these transitional vintages, particularly the mediocre 2004s which were not made by the new owners, and the good but hardly inspiring 2005s, will be lost memories when the new ownership team has the next fine vintage in the northern Rhone. As I reported last year, everything is in transition at Paul Jaboulet-Aine. This old family firm, founded in the early 1800s, was sold to the Frey family, who are major investors in the Billecart-Salmon Champagne house and proprietors of the well-known Chateau La Lagune in the southern Medoc. The entire winemaking operation is undergoing massive changes as the Jaboulet wines have had a lackluster as well as irregular track record after the death of Gerard Jaboulet in 1997. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Olive and espresso notes are backed by bright cherry fruit in this medium-bodied Syrah. It's a pleasant quaff that turns slightly dry on the finish; try it after 2011.——J.C.(4/1/2010)—— 86