The outstanding 1997 Giusto dei Notri (a 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot blend aged in French oak and bottled with neither fining nor filtration) exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, and excellent aromatics consisting of toasty new oak, lead pencil, black currants, chocolate, and smoke. Layered and rich, but backward and unevolved, with copious tannin in the finish, this wine should improve with further cellaring. The low acidity and sweet fruit give it immediate accessibility, but the wine has not yet developed its secondary aromatics. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2012. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620