The 2009 Syrah is a bit underwhelming in this vintage. Dark cherries, plums, sweet spices, blackberries, camphor and licorice flesh out in the glass, but there is little in the way of varietal character or complexity. There is plenty of size in the 2009, but distinct elements of jamminess and sweetness detract from the wine’s overall balance. Since its introduction a few years ago, Tua Rita’s Syrah has given the flagship Redigaffi a run for its money, but the 2009 falls quite a bit short next to the finest vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is another fabulous set of wines from Tua Rita, with the exception of the Syrah, which falls a bit short of its customary level. To be honest, these days I am increasingly drawn to the entry and mid-level wines at Tua Rita because of their very favorable pricing and overall value. The biggest news at Tua Rita is the return of original consulting oenologist Luca D’Attoma, who oversaw much of the planting and made the first vintages. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620