As is often, the case, the 2009 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo is one of the more compact, powerful wines in the range. Today it is closed down and virtually impossible to evaluate. My sense is the 2009 will be better in a few years’ time, but it is hard to see the wine ever becoming particularly elegant. Instead, chances are the Feudo di Mezzo will always be a bit of a brute. Cinnamon, cloves, leather and tobacco linger on the rustic, imposing finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887